Round 9: Join C (Misty Lavender) at any marker. Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 7, sk 6 sts, sc in next marked st; rep around. Join. (12 ch 7 arches)
Round 10: Sl st into first arch. Ch 3, work 11 dc in same arch, 12 dc in next arch around. Join. (12 fans of 12 dc)
Round 11: Ch 3. Dc in next dc, FPdc around next dc, dc in next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, dc in next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, dc in next 3 dc; repeat this 12 stitch rib sequence across each remaining fan. Join. Keep the FPdc tall and relaxed so the ribs rise without narrowing the shell.
Round 12: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 4, sk 2 sts, sc in next st across the first fan, ending with a sc in the last stitch of the fan; ch 5, skip the valley between fans, sc in first stitch of next fan. Continue around, keeping the top curve softly scalloped. Join; fasten off C.
Round 13: With G (Soft Silver Metallic), join at the first sc of any fan. Work 1 sl st loosely in each sc and each ch across the fan top; over the ch 5 valley, work ch 5 instead of slip stitching into the lavender chain. Continue around. Invisible join and fasten off. This silver round traces the fan curves without filling the oval windows.
Part III: Fan Layer 2 (Periwinkle)
This layer is offset, meaning each new fan sits over a valley between two lavender fans.
Round 14: Join D (Periwinkle) around the center ch of any silver ch 5 valley. Ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 9, sc around the center ch of next silver valley; rep around. Join. (12 ch 9 arches)
Round 15: Sl st into first ch 9 arch. Ch 3, work 13 dc in same arch, 14 dc in next arch around. Join. (12 fans of 14 dc)
Round 16: Ch 3, dc in next dc, FPdc around next dc, dc in next 2 dc four times, then dc in final dc of fan; repeat across all 12 fans. Join.
Round 17: Ch 1, sc in same st. Across each fan: ch 4, sk 2 sts, sc in next st until 1 to 2 sts remain; sc in final stitch. Between fans ch 5. Repeat around. Join; fasten off D.
Round 18: With G, trace each periwinkle fan exactly as in Round 13, working loose slip stitches along the fan curve and ch 5 across each valley. Invisible join; fasten off.
Part IV: Fan Layer 3 (Violet)
Round 19: Join E (Violet) around the center ch of any silver valley from Round 18. Ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 11, sc in next valley; rep around. Join. (12 ch 11 arches)
Round 20: Sl st into first arch. Ch 3, work 15 dc in same arch, 16 dc in next arch around. Join. (12 fans of 16 dc)
Round 21: Ch 3, dc in next dc, FPdc around next dc, dc in next 2 dc four times, FPdc around next dc, dc in last 2 dc; repeat across each fan. Join.
Round 22: Across each fan work a flexible top edging: ch 1, sc in same st, ch 4, sk 2 sts, sc in next st across. Between fans ch 5. Repeat around. Join; fasten off E.
Round 23: With G, trace each violet fan as before. Work ch 5 across each valley. Invisible join; fasten off.
Part V: Fan Layer 4 (Dark Plum)
The outer fan layer is the deepest color and slightly taller than the previous rings. Keep the same 12 repeat rhythm.
Round 24: Join F (Dark Plum) around the center ch of any silver valley from Round 23. Ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 13, sc in next valley; rep around. Join. (12 ch 13 arches)
Round 25: Sl st into first arch. Ch 3, work 17 dc in same arch, 18 dc in next arch around. Join. (12 fans of 18 dc)
Round 26: Ch 3, dc in next dc, FPdc around next dc, dc in next 2 dc five times, FPdc around next dc, dc in final st; repeat across each fan. Join.
Round 27: Ch 1, sc in same st. Across each fan, ch 4, sk 2 sts, sc in next st to the final few stitches, adjusting the last spacing so the final sc lands at the fan edge. Between fans ch 5. Repeat around. Join; fasten off F.
Round 28: With G, trace the plum fan tops as in prior silver rounds. Instead of a plain ch 5 over each valley, work ch 7 so the final mesh has room to open. Invisible join; do not fasten off.
Part VI: Silver Chain Mesh Border with Violet Picots
Round 29: Continuing with G, sl st to the center of the next fan top chain space. Ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 5, sc in next available fan top ch 4 sp around, treating each fan and each valley as part of one continuous mesh. Aim for evenly spaced ch 5 loops. Join. If a section begins to ruffle, substitute ch 4 for one loop; if it pulls tight, substitute ch 6.
Round 30: Sl st into first ch 5 sp. Ch 1, 3 sc in each ch 5 sp around. Join with an invisible join. Fasten off G.
Round 31: Join E (Violet) in the center sc of any 3 sc group from Round 30. Sl st in center sc, ch 3, sl st in first ch (picot), sl st in next 2 sc to reach the center of the next group; rep around. Keep each picot compact and vertical. Invisible join and fasten off.
Optional Sharper Silver Outline
For a stronger metallic contour, thread a tapestry needle with G and run a loose surface chain or couching stitch along the outermost curve of each colored fan. Do not pull tight. This is decorative only and can be omitted if your silver tracing rounds are already prominent.
Finishing Your Placemat
Weave in ends: Split the cotton yarn plies slightly with the tapestry needle and weave each tail back through at least 4 to 5 cm (1.5 to 2 inches) of matching color stitches. Reverse direction once. Trim only after blocking.
Wet block: Soak the placemat in cool water for 10 to 15 minutes. Roll in a towel to remove excess moisture. Do not wring.
Pin: On a blocking mat, first pin the center circle at 12 evenly spaced points. Then pin the outer point of every dark plum fan. Finally pin every second or third silver mesh loop and each violet picot so the circle is symmetrical.
Dry completely: Allow to air dry flat. Remove pins only when fully dry. If the metallic thread is heat sensitive, do not steam it.
Final shape: The finished placemat should lie flat with the white medallion a little larger than half the total diameter and four clearly offset fan layers radiating outward.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
| Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
| Center cups upward | Increase hook size 0.25 to 0.5 mm or add a few increases in Round 7 before returning to 84 sts in Round 8 |
| Center ruffles | Reduce increases in Round 7 or use a smaller hook |
| Fan arches pull tight | Add 1 to 2 chains to that layer’s setup arch |
| Fan layer waves | Remove 1 chain from setup arches or work the fan dc more firmly |
| Silver outline puckers | Redo with looser slip stitches or a hook 0.5 mm larger for metallic rounds only |
| Outer edge ruffles | Use ch 4 instead of ch 5 in selected mesh loops of Round 29 |
| Outer edge draws in | Use ch 6 in selected Round 29 mesh loops or block more firmly |
Pattern Checklist
Before calling your placemat complete, run through this list:
Size Adjustments
For a larger centerpiece, use DK yarn and a 3.75 to 4.0 mm hook. For a smaller plate mat, use sport cotton and a 2.75 to 3.0 mm hook while keeping the same round sequence.
Care Instructions
Hand wash or machine wash on a gentle cycle inside a mesh bag if your yarn labels permit it. Reshape while damp and dry flat. Avoid high heat on metallic thread. A light re blocking after washing restores the crisp fan geometry.
Final Thoughts on This Amethyst Fan Lace Placemat Pattern
This pattern rewards patience with truly stunning results. The combination of the creamy white flower center, the gradient purple fans, and those delicate silver outlines creates something that looks far more complicated than it actually is to make. Once you understand the rhythm of the fan layers and silver tracing rounds, you’ll find yourself moving through the pattern with confidence.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern. I hope you enjoy every round of this beautiful project.
If you make this placemat, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group. There’s nothing better than seeing these designs come to life in your hands.
Save this Amethyst Fan Lace Placemat crochet pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it whenever you’re ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I’d love to hear how it turns out for you!
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