Sage Heart Lace Table Runner Crochet Pattern

Sage Heart Lace Table Runner Crochet Pattern
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I don’t know about you, but I have a soft spot for table runners that actually make a statement. Not just a plain strip of fabric that blends into the background, but something that makes people pause and say, “Wait, you made that?”

Sage Heart Lace Table Runner Crochet Pattern

This Sage Heart Lace Table Runner is exactly that kind of project. Four gorgeous filet hearts in a soft sage green, each wrapped in delicate cream lace and scalloped edges, all joined together into one stunning centerpiece for your table.

The best part? It looks incredibly intricate, but the construction is completely approachable. If you can work double crochet and follow a simple increase pattern, you can absolutely make this.

About This Pattern

This intermediate level pattern creates four individually crocheted filet hearts that are surrounded by chain lace and finished with scalloped edges. The hearts are then joined with a modest overlap to create a runner that measures approximately 110 to 120 cm long.

Each bordered heart measures about 30 to 35 cm wide and 31 to 34 cm tall. The heart body uses shaped rows for reproducible heart outlines, making it easy to create four matching motifs.

The two color design features sage green centers with cream lace borders and a fine sage green outline on the scallops. This color combination gives the runner a fresh, modern farmhouse feel while still honoring traditional lace crochet techniques.

Materials You Will Need

Yarn: Mercerized cotton sport weight yarn in two colors. You will need approximately 700 meters of sage green (Color A) for the heart centers and approximately 500 meters of cream (Color B) for the lace borders. I recommend adding 15% extra to both amounts just to be safe.

Hook: 3 mm crochet hook, or whatever size you need to meet gauge.

Notions: Tapestry needle for weaving ends and sewing joins, 8 stitch markers, ruler, and blocking pins.

Yarn Tips: Use cotton with distinct stitch definition for the best results. The crisp stitches of mercerized cotton really make the lace pattern pop. Also, choose colorfast yarn to prevent the darker sage center from bleeding into the pale border during washing.

Gauge

Before you commit to making all four hearts, please check your gauge. This step will save you so much frustration later.

Target gauge before edging: 20 double crochet (dc) stitches x 11 rows = 10 cm

The heart body maximum width is 49 dc positions, which should measure about 24.5 cm. If your gauge is off, adjust your hook size accordingly. A larger hook will make a bigger heart, and a smaller hook will make a smaller one.

Abbreviations and US Terminology

This pattern uses US crochet terms. Here is everything you need to know:

ch = chain: Wrap yarn over hook and pull through the loop on your hook. This creates one chain stitch.

sl st = slip stitch: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion.

sc = single crochet: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops.

hdc = half double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

dc = double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops.

st/sts = stitch/stitches

sp = space

RS/WS = right side/wrong side

rep = repeat

Increase = 2 stitches worked in one stitch

sc2tog = single crochet two together: Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook in following stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

dc2tog = double crochet two together: Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops remain), yarn over, insert hook in following stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops remain), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

Important: Turning chains do NOT count as a stitch unless a step explicitly says they do.

Heart Body Instructions (Make Four)

You will work from the lower point of the heart up toward the cleft. Chain 2 (ch 2) and turn before each new row. Remember, the ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch.

Work your dc into stitches, and work 1 dc into each ch-1 space where a solid row is specified. The position count includes both dc and ch-1 positions.

Row 1 (Color A)

Ch 4, work 3 dc in fourth ch from hook. The unused chains are foundation only, not a fourth stitch.

Stitch count: 3 dc. Turn.

Row 2

Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, dc in middle st, 2 dc in last st.

Stitch count: 5. Turn.

Rows 3 through 24 (Shaping Rows)

Each row increases by 2 stitches: work 2 dc in first st, work across the middle according to the lace rule below, then 2 dc in last st.

Row n has 2n+1 positions. Use these checkpoints to make sure you are on track:

  • Row 6 = 13 positions
  • Row 12 = 25 positions
  • Row 18 = 37 positions
  • Row 24 = 49 positions
  • The Lace Rule

    On rows divisible by 3 (that is rows 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, and 24), after the first increase work (ch 1, skip next position, dc in next position) as many times as possible before the last 2 old positions. Then ch 1, skip the penultimate position, and work 2 dc in last position.

    All intervening rows (the ones NOT divisible by 3) are solid dc across.

    Example for Row 3: 2 dc in first st, ch 1, skip next, dc in next, ch 1, skip next, 2 dc in last st = 7 positions total.

    Rows 25 through 28

    Work even over 49 positions with no increases.

    Rows 25, 26, and 28: Dc in every position. (49 stitches)

    Row 27: Dc in first, then work (ch 1, skip 1, dc in next) 24 times. This gives you 25 dc + 24 ch-1 spaces = 49 positions total.

    Do not increase on these rows. Fasten off at the end of Row 28.

    Shaping the Two Lobes

    Now you will create the classic heart shape by working the two rounded lobes at the top.

    Mark the Split

    With RS facing, count across Row 28. Mark position 25 for the central cleft. You will leave this position unworked. The left lobe uses positions 1 through 24. The right lobe uses positions 26 through 49.

    Work each lobe separately. Remember, ch 2 never counts as a stitch.

    Lobe Row 1

    Join Color A at outside edge for first lobe and work dc in 24 positions. For second lobe, join at the cleft side and work 24 positions, so the same row instructions mirror naturally.

    Stitch count: 24. Turn.

    Lobe Row 2

    Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 20 sts, dc2tog.

    Stitch count: 22. Turn.

    Lobe Row 3

    Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 18 sts, dc2tog.

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