Round 21 :
Work decorative clusters in small spaces to create a flat surface for applique: Into every small chain space, work (hdc, ch1, hdc). Repeat around to fill small gaps (78)
Round 22 :
Finish motif top: 1 sc in each st (78). Fasten off leaving 20-25 cm tail for joining later. Make 6 motifs identical. Block all motifs before joining.
Info :
Blocking tip: use a damp cloth and a steam iron at safe distance or spray with water then pin on blocking board to the exact scallop shape. Allow to dry thoroughly to set the shape. Proper blocking makes joining easier and neater.
— Joining Motifs Into Long Runner :
Info :
Line up 6 motifs so their long lobed sides form an S-shaped elongated runner pictured. Join motifs using whip stitch from corner to corner along two adjacent scalloped edges, or use a join-as-you-go method by slip stitching through edge loops of the next motif as you work the last round of the previous motif. Leave slight gaps to insert vines and buds later (do not over-tighten joins).
Round 1 (Join Step) :
Place motif A and motif B right sides together aligning lobes; using cream yarn and a yarn needle, work whip stitch through corresponding SC anchors along the joining side to join motifs. Make even stitches approximately every 6-8 mm. When finished join, knot and weave in tails. Repeat to join all six motifs in a linear sequence (no numeric stitch count as lengths vary by motif joining side).
Info :
Positioning tip: before stitching, pin the motifs together on the table and check the overall runner curve. If you prefer a flatter runner, arrange motifs in a straight line, otherwise follow an S shape for a more organic look. When joining, ensure scallops align and not tucked behind to avoid bulked seams.
— Rose Appliques (Make 6 large layered roses + 12 small roses/buds) :
Rose Strip Round 1 :
With red and smaller hook if desired: ch 60 (or any multiple of 6; this length yields approximately a 10-12 cm rolled rose depending on yarn). Do not join; starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across (59 sc)
Rose Strip Round 2 :
Turn. To create petal clusters: *sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, 5 dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts* ; repeat across. You will make approximately 59/10 = 5-6 full petal units depending on chain length; if your chain yields partial petal unit at end, adjust by finishing with sc to anchor strip. (Approx 59 anchors)
Rose Strip Round 3 :
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Roll the strip tightly from one end to the other to create the center; secure carefully by sewing the base with the long tail. For a more layered look, fold the strip slightly as you roll to make fuller outer petals. Make 6 large roses. Small buds: ch 6, work 5 sc back across (5 sc), roll and sew (make 12 small buds).
Info :
Rose shaping tip: roll loosely for a soft rose, or tighter for a compact rosette. Use a small dab of glue if you need temporary hold while sewing. Stitch the base of the rolled rose to secure it so it does not unroll when attached to the motif. If you prefer layered circles instead of strip method, you can make circular layered petals (see alternative below).
Alternative Large Rose (Layered Petal Rounds) :
mr, 6 sc in MR (6); Round 2: (1 sc, inc) x3 (9); Round 3: (2 sc, inc) x3 (12); Round 4: Fasten off leaving long tail, work 3 petals rounds by working shell clusters around the small circle: into each st make (ch2, 7 dc, ch2) then shape and sew petals outward. This produces a smaller, flatter rose—recommended for a variety of sizes.
Info :
Make 6 large roses and a dozen small buds. Adjust size by changing chain length for the strip or using a smaller/larger hook. Lightly stuff rose centers with polyester fill (very small amount) if you want a puffed center, but most roses look best unstuffed and flat.
— Leaves (Make 24 leaves of mixed sizes) :
Leaf Round 1 :
With leaf green, ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across to end (9 sc). Turn (9)
Leaf Round 2 :
Ch1, work along one long side: hdc in first st, dc in next, tr in next 2, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next – then work along opposite long side in matching decreases: sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc to shape tip back to foundation. Fasten off (length unchanged, finishing picot optional)
Info :
You will form leaves in two sizes: full leaf as above and small leaf by starting ch 7 and following same shaping principle (makes a smaller leaf). Add BLO ribbing by working 1 sc in BLO across the next row for a veined look if desired.
Leaf Round 3 :
For veins and dimension: With darker green, whip stitch 3-4 lines from base to tip. Optional: embroider a central vein with surface slip stitches (ch1, sl st along center) to make veins pop.
Info :
Make a mixture of 16 medium leaves and 8 small leaves to place around the large roses as pictured. Slightly block leaves by pinning them flat so they curve gently—this helps when sewing them under rose bases.
— Vines and Buds (Vines are surface-crocheted) :
Vine Round 1 :
With leaf green, using surface crochet technique (or make a chain and sew): Starting at the top of a motif, ch 80-120 depending on desired vine length. For surface crochet: work slip stitches along the lace surface where vine will run, anchoring the vine to the lace. For a sewn chain vine: ch length, then sew chain down with yarn needle to form a slightly raised vine.
Vine Round 2 :
Where buds and leaves attach, leave short chain stubs of ch 4-6 and secure in place; these will serve as branch anchors for buds. For a natural look create a few gentle S-curves and loops. There is no single count—vine lengths vary by motif placement, but plan one main central vine per motif roughly 80-120 ch long.
Bud Round 3 :
Make small buds as: mr, 6 sc in MR (6) Fasten off leaving tail for sewing, or ch 4, work 6 sc across and roll into a tiny bud (6). Make 12-16 small buds across the runner.
Info :
Vine and bud placement is aesthetic—pin everything on the blocked base motifs before sewing. Vary bud sizes to keep a natural look. Use short stitches to attach buds so they do not flop away from the runner surface.
— Small Decorative Flowers (Tiny 5-petal clusters) :
Round 1 :
With red, ch5, sl st to form ring. Repeat 5 times around center to form tiny 5-petal flower: in ring work *(ch2, sl st in ring)* x5, pull tight and secure (5 mini petals). Stitch these sparsely on motifs to echo the main roses. (No global count)
Info :
Make 8-12 tiny flowers to scatter across motifs as pictured. They are purely decorative and are best sewn on with a few small stitches under the petal base.
— Assembly & Placement of Appliques :
Info :
Before sewing, lay out the joined runner and pin each large rose to the center of each motif. The pictured runner has one large rose centered on each motif with smaller leaves and buds fanning out along the vine. Place a few leaves under each rose and stitch leaves first, then center the rose and sew through the base stitches to attach to the motif. Attach buds at vine forks.
Assembly Step 1 :
Pin 6 large roses to motif centers: one rose on each motif centered over the largest scallop. When satisfied with placement, sew each rose base to the motif with long tail and needle using tight mattress or ladder-like stitches to secure the base invisibly. Double back and weave in tails for security.
Assembly Step 2 :
Sew leaves around each rose: place medium leaves (3-4) under the rose base pointing outward, and 1-2 small leaves tucked in between. Sew leaves by stitching through the base only so edges remain free and slightly raised.
Assembly Step 3 :
Sew vines next: anchor the long vine chains by stitching at their start and finish and a couple of places along their length. Sew small bud bases to the vine at branch points, making sure each bud is tight and secure (no long loose tails).
Info :
Tip: Use a blunt tapestry needle to pass through lace holes without splitting yarn. Work from the wrong side when possible to hide knots and weavings. Sew each applique securely with at least 6-8 stitches around the base for the large roses to avoid future loosening.
— Border Edging (Red scalloped edge around full runner) :
Info :
Edge is worked with red yarn in rounds; because the runner is formed from 6 motifs joined, count the number of large scallop points along the outer perimeter (each motif has 6 large scallops and multiple small scallops). For neatness, work edging in two rounds: a foundation round of even sc anchors and then a scalloped shell round.
Round 1 (Foundation) :
Attach red yarn at any outermost scallop base. Work 1 sc in every visible top-loop and sl st in corners to create a continuous edge anchor. For the entire runner you should arrive at an even total of anchors; for planning, if each motif outer perimeter yields 78 anchors then 6 motifs joined would give 468 anchors (78 x 6 = 468) minus anchors used in joins; final anchor count approx 440-468 depending on join method. Work 1 sc in each anchor around the entire runner (approx 440-468 sc).
Info :
If your anchor count is slightly different because of tension or joining, simply work 1 sc in each available stitch/space; avoid skipping or doubling anchors or shells will misalign.
Round 2 (Scallop Shells) :
*sc in next 3 anchors, 7 dc in next anchor (shell), sc in next 3 anchors, sl st in next anchor* repeat around creating pronounced scallops. The count of shells will equal the number of major scallop anchors around the runner (expected around 36 shells total if each motif contributes 6 large scallops x 6 motifs = 36 shells). After completing the round, join with sl st, fasten off and weave in ends.
Round 3 (Picot Trim Optional) :
For more decorative edge: attach red at any sc, *ch3, sl st into same anchor to form picot, sk 2 anchors, sc into next* repeat around adding picots between shells. Fasten off and weave ends.
Info :
The outer scallop count is important to ensure symmetry. If you placed 6 motifs, expect 36 pronounced scallops. Adjust spacing of sc between shells in Round 2 if needed to create precisely 36 shells.
— Finishing Touches :
Info :
Once all appliques and border are sewn, give the runner a final block. Lay the runner flat on a blocking board, shape scallops to match, and pin. Lightly steam (following yarn care instructions) or spray with water and allow to dry. This sets the lace and roses pleasingly. Weave in all ends on the wrong side and trim close to fabric.
Detailing :
If you want added realism, use a tapestry needle and darker green to add a few embroidered veins on leaves, or a tiny yellow thread center to tiny red flowers. Small touches elevate the handmade look.
Final Care :
Hand-wash gently in cool water and dry flat. Avoid wringing or machine agitation which can distort applique. Store flat or rolled to avoid creasing of the 3D roses.
Assembly Instructions
- Attach motifs end-to-end: align matching scallops, pin the two adjoining motifs together and whip stitch through corresponding foundation stitches along the joining edge. Use cream yarn and make stitches evenly spaced for a flat seam.
- Pin and sew leaves to the motif surface before attaching the large rose. Secure leaf bases with 6-8 small stitches to keep edges slightly lifted for dimension.
- Center each large rose on its motif’s primary scallop; sew rose base to motif using the long tail and a yarn needle with close stitches around the base to prevent loosening. Backstitch to secure and weave in tail through multiple stitches.
- Sew vine chains in place next, anchoring them with small stitches at start, end and where branches form. Attach buds and tiny flowers to vine branch points using a few stitches through the base of each bud.
- After all appliques are sewn, work the red outer scalloped edging around the entire runner, maintaining even spacing of shells. If necessary, pin shells in place before crocheting to ensure symmetry.
- Block the entire runner once assembled: lay flat, pin scallops into shape, spray/light steam and let dry thoroughly. Finally, trim any visible tails and reinforce any applique bases with a few hidden stitches if they feel loose.
Important Notes
- 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each motif round to avoid counting errors and keep six cardinal lobe points consistent.
- 💡Stuff rose centers only minimally if desired; most roses look best unstuffed or with a tiny bit of fiberfill for lift.
- 💡Block each motif before assembly to ensure even shapes and flat seams; blocked motifs join more neatly.
- 💡When sewing appliques, always pin and check placement with a photograph of the layout before permanently attaching.
- 💡Work with consistent tension; if your lace looks too dense, try a slightly larger hook one size up, and if too open, one size down.
- 💡Weave in ends securely and weave through several stitches on the wrong side rather than knotting on the visible top.
- 💡When working color changes, fasten off at round ends to avoid carrying multiple yarns across open lace surfaces.
- 💡Keep a small sample motif as a reference while making appliques to ensure scale and proportion remain consistent.
