If you love granny squares but want to try something a little different, the Squared Diamond Granny Throw is a beautiful project to put on your crochet list. It takes the familiar granny-square technique and builds on it with additional layers, creating a lovely geometric design that looks like diamonds are sitting inside larger squares.
At first glance, the finished pattern may look complicated, but the construction is based on familiar crochet techniques. Once you understand how the granny clusters, corners, and outer sections fit together, the design starts to make much more sense.
The best part is that you can have fun with the colors. Soft, coordinating shades give the blanket a calm and traditional look, while brighter contrasting colors make the diamond shapes stand out. You can also change the number of rows or colors to create a blanket that is completely your own.
This pattern is worked in sections, so take your time as you go. The corners and connecting rows need a little extra attention, but the finished effect is well worth it.
Squared Diamond Granny Throw Materials
Yarn
For the five-color version, you’ll need approximately five 7-ounce skeins of yarn.
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The amount of yarn used for each color isn’t exactly the same. The outermost color uses almost an entire 7-ounce skein, while the innermost color uses about half a skein. The colors between them will require amounts somewhere in between.
Your actual yarn requirements may vary depending on your tension, yarn weight, hook size, and the finished size you choose.
Crochet Hook
The original throw was made using an I/9 (5.50 mm) crochet hook.
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However, you don’t have to use exactly the same hook size. One of the nice things about this pattern is that you can adapt it to different yarns and projects.
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For example, a G hook could be used to make smaller panels, while a K hook combined with bulky yarn would be suitable for a larger floor cover. A J hook with rug yarn could also make a sturdy floor covering.
If you crochet loosely, you may find that an H hook gives you a similar result to the original version.
The important thing is to choose a hook that works comfortably with your yarn and gives you the fabric you want.
Granny Stitch
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For this granny throw, use traditional 3-double-crochet clusters (3 DC) with no chain between the clusters.
At each corner, work:
3 DC, Ch 3, 3 DC
There is one important detail to remember throughout this pattern: turn your work at the end of each row.
Turning helps keep the appearance of the inner granny square consistent with the outer corners. If you don’t turn your work, the stitches can look different and the corners may not line up the way you expect.
The total number of rows needs to be even. You can make your squares with:
4, 6, 8, 10, 12 rows, and so on.
The larger outer squares should also finish on an even-numbered row.
For the original version, 10 rows were worked using five colors, with two rows of each color. You can change this however you like. Use one row per color, two rows, three rows, or create your own color sequence.
How to Crochet the Basic Granny Square
Before building the outer layers, you’ll begin with a traditional granny-style square.
Start: Magic Circle
Create a magic circle.
Row 1
Chain 3. This counts as your first double crochet.
Work 2 DC into the magic circle.
Chain 3, then work 3 DC into the circle.
Repeat the corner and cluster sequence three more times.
Chain 2 and pull the magic circle closed.
Single crochet into the top of the beginning chain 3.
Chain 3 and turn your work.
Remember to turn your work at the beginning of each row.
Row 2
Work 2 DC into the chain-2 space from the previous row.
In the next chain-3 corner space, work:
3 DC, Ch 3, 3 DC
Repeat around the square.
At the end of the round, work 3 DC around the post of the single crochet from the previous row.
Chain 3 and slip stitch into the top of the first chain 3.
Fasten off and turn your work.
Row 3
Change to a new color.
Slip stitch into any side space.
Chain 3, which counts as your first DC, then work 2 more DC into the same space.
In the next corner space, work:
3 DC, Ch 3, 3 DC
Work 3 DC into the next gap.
Continue around the square, making a corner cluster in each corner.
When you reach the beginning, slip stitch into the top of the first chain 3.
Chain 3 and turn.
Row 4
Work 2 DC into the same space.
Continue working 3 DC into each following space.
At each corner, work:
3 DC, Ch 3, 3 DC
Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3.
Fasten off and turn.
Row 5
Change color.
Slip stitch into any middle gap.
Chain 3 and work 2 DC into the same gap.
Work 3 DC into each gap around the square.
In every corner chain-3 space, work:
3 DC, Ch 3, 3 DC
Slip stitch to the top of the first chain 3.
Chain 3 and turn.
Row 6
Work 2 DC into the same gap.
Work 3 DC into each following gap.
In every corner chain-3 space, work a corner cluster.
Slip stitch to the beginning chain 3.
Fasten off and turn.
Row 7
Change color.
Slip stitch into any middle gap.
Chain 3 and work 2 DC into the same gap.
Work 3 DC into every remaining gap.
Make a corner cluster in each corner.
Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3.
Chain 3 and turn.
Rows 8–10
Continue repeating Rows 6 and 7 until Row 10 is complete.
Do not turn your work after Row 10.
Finishing the Granny Square
With the front of your work facing you, use the slip stitch already on your hook to work around the outside of the square.
Work a slip stitch into the front loop of each double crochet, working loosely through the chain spaces as well.
The slip stitches should not be tight. Keeping them loose will make the next part of the pattern much easier.
Chain 1 in the center of each side of the square and mark these stitches with stitch markers.
These marked chain-1 spaces will help you locate the center of each side when you begin adding the outer sections.
Counting the Stitches
Each side should have three stitches for every granny cluster, plus two additional stitches for the corners.
Do not count the middle of the chain-3 corner space as a stitch.
For example, if one side has 10 clusters:
10 × 3 = 30 stitches
Add the two corner stitches:
30 + 2 = 32 stitches
The extra stitch added in the center of the slip-stitch row isn’t counted as a separate stitch. It functions as both the last and first stitch in the center clusters.
Attaching the Outer Sections
There are two approaches described for attaching the outer sections: a two-sided connection and a one-sided connection.
Two-Sided Connection
Look closely at the edge where you made the slip-stitch row.
You’ll see two threads behind the front and back loops. One will be slightly longer, while the other sits a little closer to the hand holding your hook.
Use these two threads when attaching the sides of the square.
This creates a raised ridge on both the front and back of the project.
At each corner, use the two threads in the center of the chain-1 space to help anchor the corner group.
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One-Sided Connection
For the one-sided version, use one center thread together with one back loop when attaching each row.
