Mint Green Bunny Baby Dress Free Crochet Pattern

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I’ve been looking for the perfect baby dress pattern for months now. Something sweet but not too fussy. Something that looks impressive but actually makes sense when you sit down to crochet it. This mint green bunny dress is my favourite find, and I’m so excited to share it with you today.

The combination of the crisp white bodice and that soft mint skirt just works. And those little bunny faces with their tiny carrots? Absolutely adorable without being over the top.

Whether you’re making this for a baby shower gift, a first birthday outfit, or your own little one, this dress delivers. It’s the kind of project that looks like it took forever but actually comes together in a reasonable timeframe once you understand the construction.

Why This Baby Dress Pattern Works So Well

This dress is designed for a 12 month size with an 18 inch chest circumference and approximately 14 inches total length from shoulder to hem. The construction is smart and logical. You work the bodice flat in two panels, seam the shoulders, then pick up stitches along the bottom edge and work the skirt downward in the round.

The bodice uses simple single crochet (sc) throughout, which means you get a nice sturdy fabric that holds its shape. The skirt transitions into a beautiful open shell stitch pattern that gives the dress movement and that pretty, flared silhouette you see in the photos.

Those scalloped edges in mint green? They’re easier than they look. The same edging technique appears at the neckline, sleeve caps, and hem, which gives the whole piece a polished, coordinated finish.

Skill Level and Time Commitment

I’d call this an intermediate pattern. You need to be comfortable working flat and in the round, reading stitch counts, seaming pieces together, and making small amigurumi style appliques for the bunny faces.

If you’ve made a few garments before and you’re not afraid of picking up stitches along an edge, you’ll do great here. If this is your first baby garment, take it slow and trust the process.

Time estimate: approximately 12 to 18 hours total, including the appliques and finishing work. The bodice goes quickly. The skirt takes a bit longer because of the shell pattern, but it’s rhythmic and relaxing once you get going.

Materials You’ll Need

Gather everything before you start. There’s nothing worse than getting halfway through a project and realizing you’re short on yarn.

Yarn:

Yarn A: White, worsted weight (Category 4), approximately 180 yards

Yarn B: Mint green, worsted weight (Category 4), approximately 220 yards

Yarn C: White, small amount (approximately 15 yards) for bunny appliques

Yarn D: Orange, small amount (approximately 5 yards) for carrots

Yarn E: Green, small amount (approximately 3 yards) for carrot tops

Hook: US size G-6 / 4.0 mm

Notions:

Yarn needle

Stitch markers (6)

3 wooden buttons (approximately 5/8 inch diameter)

Sewing needle and thread to match Yarn A

Scissors

Rust-proof pins for blocking

2 small black safety eyes (6 mm) or black embroidery thread for bunny eyes

Pink embroidery thread for bunny nose and inner ears

Yarn suggestions that work beautifully: Lion Brand Pound of Love in White and Sage gives you plenty of yardage and washes like a dream. Paintbox Yarns Simply DK held double also works well if you want excellent stitch definition. Avoid fuzzy or bouclé yarns since stitch definition matters for the shell pattern and applique details.

Gauge (Please Don’t Skip This)

I know, I know. Gauge swatches aren’t the fun part. But with a garment, especially a baby garment that needs to fit, gauge matters.

With US G-6 / 4.0 mm hook:

18 stitches x 20 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches in single crochet

If your swatch is too big, go down a hook size. Too small? Go up. Getting gauge right means your finished dress will match the measurements listed.

Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions

Let me walk you through every stitch and abbreviation you’ll encounter. I’m defining them all upfront so you won’t have to guess later.

ch: chain, the foundation stitch that creates your starting row

sc: single crochet, insert hook, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops

dc: double crochet, yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops

sc2tog: single crochet two together, a decrease that turns 2 stitches into 1

sl st: slip stitch, insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion

sk: skip

st(s): stitch(es)

t-ch: turning chain

RS: right side (the outside of your garment)

WS: wrong side (the inside)

MR: magic ring, an adjustable starting loop for working in the round

rep: repeat

rem: remaining

Special Stitches:

Shell Stitch: Work 5 dc all into the same stitch or chain space. This creates a fan shaped cluster that forms the open mesh of the skirt.

Scallop Edging: Sl st into first st, (ch 3, 2 dc) into the same st, sk 2 sts, sl st into next st, (ch 3, 2 dc) into the same sl st, sk 2 sts, rep across, ending sl st into last st. This produces the decorative scalloped mint border.

Pattern Notes Before You Begin

Read through these before you pick up your hook. They’ll save you confusion later.

The bodice is worked flat in two panels (back panel and front panel), then seamed at the shoulders

The skirt is picked up from the lower edge of the bodice and worked downward in joined rounds

At the start of each dc row, ch 3 and turn. This ch 3 counts as the first dc

At the start of each sc row, ch 1 and turn. This ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch

For color changes, switch yarns at the last yarn over of the final stitch before the color change

The right side of work is the outside of the garment

Buttons are sewn to the left front panel. Buttonholes are formed in the right front panel

Section 1: Back Bodice Panel

Start with Yarn A (white).

Foundation: Ch 42.

Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (41 sc)

Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc)

Rows 3 through 20: Rep Row 2. Turn after each row. (41 sc each row)

After Row 20, your back panel should measure approximately 4 inches wide and 4 inches tall.

Armhole Shaping (Back)

Row 21 (RS): Ch 1, sl st in first 4 sts, sc in next 35 sts, leave last 3 sts unworked. Turn. (35 sc)

Row 22: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (33 sc)

Row 23: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (31 sc)

Row 24: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (31 sc)

Row 25: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (29 sc)

Rows 26 through 30: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (29 sc each row)

Shoulder Shaping (Back)

Row 31: Ch 1, sc in first 8 sts only. Fasten off. This is the right back shoulder. (8 sc)

Rejoin Yarn A to the 22nd stitch from the right edge (leaving center 13 sts for back neck).

Row 31 left shoulder: Ch 1, sc in last 8 sts. Fasten off. (8 sc)

The center 13 sts remain unworked for the back neck opening.

Checkpoint: Your back bodice panel should measure approximately 9 inches wide at the widest point and 6 inches tall from foundation to shoulder.

Section 2: Front Bodice Panel

The front is divided into left and right panels that meet at center front. The right panel carries the buttons. The left panel has the buttonholes.

Right Front Panel

Foundation: With Yarn A, ch 24.

Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (23 sc)

Rows 2 through 20: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (23 sc each row)

Armhole Shaping (Right Front)

Row 21 (RS): Ch 1, sl st in first 4 sts, sc in rem 19 sts. Turn. (19 sc)

Row 22: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (18 sc)

Row 23: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (17 sc)

Row 24: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (17 sc)

Row 25: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (16 sc)